Only the top layer is important to use now, as it is what contains the DMT, but one should not discard the bottom layer yet, as it can be pulled from more than once.
This will basify the water and compounds in it; it will allow the naphtha to absorb the alkaloids. Use low to medium settings for a stove. From there another 400 mL of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours. Base Material: 1 lb Powdered or finely ground MHRB (Mimosa Tenuiflora/Hostilis root bark). When this tek was first posted on the net on another forum someone speculated that these fats might contain the compound from MHRB which will make the alkaloid active when swallowed without the need for MAOI. In essence that is all there is to this tek. This pic shows after 1 lb of bark has been added to each 1 gallon jug, that is half filled with lye water. Be careful In lamence terms, this will cause the DMT crystals to clump up, so that they can be extracted from the naphtha through a filter
This tek works great with broken pieces of bark but takes longer than if you first powder the bark. Place 25 to 35 gr (beginners between 10 and 20 gr) of the powdered root bark in 125 to 175 ml of cold water for an hour and squeeze and stir the powder a couple of times. Allow the particles in the extraction in the one-gallon container to settle to the bottom over night, then decant off the liquid into an empty one-gallon glass wine jug, being careful not to include any of the sludge at the bottom. Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. Adding lye to the water too quickly may cause the glass to heat and break, so one must take care to add the lye slowly. Thus; the root bark must first be soaked in a high pH adjusted water before the goodies will be soluble or removed by the extraction solvent. To make it easier to get the MHRB powder into the jug, he takes a butter knife and agitates the bark in the 2 liter, poking it down into the hole, so the hole is not clogged. When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120° F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Second extraction cycle; 4 more grams 7 hours later, third extraction cycle; 2.5 more grams 38.5 hours later for a total of 7.5 grams in 48 hours of soaking the root bark in the basified water with multiple extractions to the same plant material performed as outlined below. The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by VortexHere is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root barkStep by step guide for the above using a pound of root barkExtraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less workNotes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mixTo warm or not to warm the basified mix of root barkThe Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by VortexHere is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root barkStep by step guide for the above using a pound of root barkExtraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less workNotes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mixTo warm or not to warm the basified mix of root barkThe Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006

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Note: When the solvent was evaporated from the defat process there was no discernible amount of alkaloid present, only orange fats. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. Measure out 60g of NaOH. Put the ground-up Mimosa tenuiflora root-bark in a three-liter crockpot, then fill it with 50% of the water-vinegar solution. That is the only real difference between using either form of bark, less … The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130° F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content.

After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 mL of additional water and added to the mix with 400 mL more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours.

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